Thom Browne

Thom Browne started in 2001 with five made-to-measure suits in a small West Village shop, and the shrunken grey suit, its jacket cropped and its trousers cut above the ankle, became the label's calling card. A red, white and blue grosgrain tab appears on every piece, with the four-bar stripe as a second signature. Womenswear followed in 2011, Ermenegildo Zegna bought a majority stake in 2018, and in 2023 Browne became chairman of the CFDA and showed a first couture collection in Paris.